Helen Pensanti, M.D.

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Dr. Helen Pensanti Discussion

LeAine Dehmer Clinical Skincare Specialist Answers Your Questions!

Over the counter lip plumper’s: Capsaicin is often a main ingredient, right? Are there others? How do they work? I've read it's basically by irritating the skin and increasing blood flow.

Yes capsaicin (from the red pepper plant) is used very often as a main ingredient for lip plumper’s. Other great plumper’s (volumizers) are ingredients such as; cinnamon, wintergreen, menthol, caffeine. They work 2 ways. Some work by stimulating blood flow (over circulation) causing a swelling thus plumper lips. Some work by irritating the lip tissue causing more of an inflammation reaction. With each method usually you will feel a tingling sensation from slight to wow wee. The burning or itchy sensations (the irritating method) is caused by the chosen active ingredients.

Do you think the effects of lip plumping glosses are minimal?

I will answer the “effects” word in two ways. I am also answering with ways to prolong or for those of you who needles or going under the knife is not an option. First, I have experienced glosses not working as well as lip (plumper) treatment creams or balms. With most volumizing glosses there is too much multi-tasking going on i.e. color, plump, hydrate, long lasting; so I believe you get a dilution of the active ingredients. So yes I think there effects are minimal vs. their counter part of creams or balms.

Second I’ll answer to, are “effects” minimal? As an anti-aging specialist I must answer this question with this perspective as well. I believe women should understand long term effects of the action of “plumping”. Plumper’s are a short term cosmetic effect to enhance the lips volume again temporarily. Plumping is a “politically correct” term for “you’re stretching the living daylights out of your lip/skin tissue” weakening the fibroblast integrity. And you’re doing this daily several times a day. Just like using the same balloon (your lips) blowing it up and letting the air out every day several times a day. If you think you’re having issues with upper lip lines now, just wait you’re actually enhancing them. What I teach my client’s is how to actually enhance fuller lips by getting moisture and collagen boosting creams into the lip tissue, ingredients with benefits not just “fillers”. I call this anti-aging for lips. Look for lip creams or face creams (yes, use them over the lips) with collagen stimulators, antioxidants and moisture magnets such as hyaluronic acid, silver ear mushroom (new discovery I use even more intense then hyaluronic acid). Because the creams penetrate into the lip tissue they will leave the surface a little bare. Seal in the treatment with a Shea butter base balm or petrolatum (plant based) not petroleum based balm or sticks.

Do you have a favorite makeup tip for making lips appear fuller?

Yes, lots of them! First apply lip color and gloss all over lips. Next use a lip gloss highlighter (usually a whitish or silvery cast) only applied to center of upper and lower lip area. This works fabulously.

Lip pencils. Can’t live without them. I prefer one that matches my natural lip color, by using a pencil color this way rather than matching a lipstick color; you can extend better past your (volume challenged) natural lip. With this I can create a considerably fuller pucker for anyone.

Permanent Makeup! I have the privilege of my long time friend being what I think is the world’s best permanent makeup artist. You need to do your research and see photo after photo of a PMA’s work. Or best if possible, meet people she or he has actually done work on. I suggest only doing your natural lip color. This way you can easily go over with any lipstick color you’re in the mood for any day. By doing your natural lip color a PMA can work magic in changing your lip volume and shape for an improved look. You can wake up, eat, and swim never losing your full volume lips.

What's the best treatment for chapped lips? I've read that petrolatum-based balms are great. Better, at least than things like Carmex that have camphor which may irritate the skin. Would you agree?

Yes and no. No because balms with a base such as petrolatum (plant based), petroleum (yuk!), Shea butter and all kinds of oils cannot penetrate the lip tissue or are extremely limited with penetration. The problem of dry lips starts from the inside not surface. You need to treat both issues. The best treatment for both (as I wrote above) is moisture and collagen boosting creams that can penetrate the lip tissue, ingredients with benefits not just “fillers”. I call this anti-aging for lips. Look for lip creams or face creams (yes, use them over the lips) with collagen stimulators, antioxidants and moisture magnets such as hyaluronic acid, silver ear mushroom (new discovery I use, even more intense then hyaluronic acid). Because the creams penetrate into the lip tissue they will leave the surface a little bare. Seal in the treatment with a Shea butter base balm or petrolatum (plant based) not petroleum based balm or sticks. Now you’re correcting the inside and outside issues of the lip.

Also, are more emollient balms better than waxy sticks like traditional Chap Stick?

Yes. Waxes are a cheaper ingredient usually then butters, oils and silicone (plant derived) based lip treatments. Waxes can only temporarily hide so to say the symptom of dry lips. You get no correction which is why you have to use them all day long.

What's the best lipstick for someone with dry lips? I would imagine it would be something with a lot of emollients, like a sheer lipstick. Definitely not a matte or a stain, no?

Without naming any brand most makeup lines are well advanced with color and moisture treatment in a lipstick. Actually with the use of the newer silicone’s we now have full color pigments in a great moistening lipstick. Move over sheer



Helen Pensanti M.D.

Research Info Archives

  1. 3 Major Health Problems
  2. 5 Ways to Lose Body Fat
  3. 7 Edible Weeds
  4. 7 Steps to Healing
  5. 10 Foods You Should NEVER EAT!!
  6. 10 Things You Must Do To Beat Breast Cancer Now
  7. 10 Ways to Increase Energy
  8. Acne
  9. Age Spots
  10. Alzheimer's Prevention Plan
  11. Aloe Vera Freeze Dried Capsules and AloeVera Liquid Concentrate
  12. Anti-Aging Tips
  13. Anxiety and Stress
  14. Arteries Clean
  15. Arthritis
  16. Atherosclerosis
  17. Baby Boomers and Alzheimer’s Disease
  18. Bacteria and Viral Infections
  19. Bananas are healthy!
  20. Beating Breast Cancer with Nutrition
  21. Belly Fat
  22. Beta Glucan
  23. Beauty of Mathematics
  24. Bio-Identical VS Synthetic Hormones
  25. Bladder Infection Help - Parsley Tea
  26. Blood Clots
  27. Breast Cancer Inducing Chemicals
  28. Breast Cancer Profile
  29. Breast Cancer and Synthetic Hormones
  30. Buying and Preparing Fresh Fish
  31. Cancer Prevention Tips - Stay Cancer Proof
  32. Cancer Protection List - Household Items to Avoid
  33. Cataracts
  34. Chelation Therapy
  35. Clustered Water/Healthy Immune System
  36. Cold Sores
  37. Constipation
  38. Cortisol and Weight Loss
  39. Calories and Calore Counting
  40. Cystitis
  41. Dark Spots On Bananas - Anti Cancer
  42. Date Rape Drug Information - GHB
  43. Dental Problems
  44. Diabetes
  45. Diabetes Mellitus
  46. Diabetes Travel Tips
  47. Diseases Do Not Just Happen
  48. Dr Helen's 1200 Calorie Diet to lose 45 pounds in 3 months
  49. Eating Genetically Modified Fruits
  50. Eliminate "White Poison" From Your Diet
  51. Estrogen Found in Foods/Herbs/Drugs/Chemicals
  52. Estrogen Inhibiting Foods
  53. Fatigue
  54. Fatigue and Loss of Energy
  55. Five Keys to Restoration
  56. Food Toxins
  57. Foot Health
  58. General Question About Natural Hormones
  59. Hair growth in unwanted places
  60. Hair Loss
  61. Headache Check Lists - Headache Symptoms and Headache Causes
  62. Healing properties of garlic and onions
  63. Healing / Water Clusters
  64. Health Updates
  65. Healthly Foods Chart for Bone Health
  66. Healthly Foods Chart
  67. Healthy Food List
  68. Healthy Living Recipe Options
  69. Heart Disease - #1 Cause of Death In America
  70. Heart Disease and Women - Estrogen does not benefit the heart.
  71. High Blood Pressure - Hypertension
  72. Hepatitis
  73. Highlights from Dr Abraham's interview at the 6th Annual Anti-Aging Conference
  74. Holiday Meals
  75. Hormone Replacement Therapy (HRT) linked to Hearing Loss
  76. Hormone Studies
  77. Inflammation Reduction
  78. Insomnia Information
  79. Keeping Your Liver Healthy
  80. Laser Vision Correction
  81. LeAine Dehmer Clinical Skincare Specialist Answers Your Questions
  82. Long Life and Aging
  83. Lose 45 Pounds In 3 Months
  84. Mamograms - Infrared Thermography
  85. Managing Lactose Intolerance
  86. Mascular Degeneration
  87. Men and Progesterone
  88. Men's Prostate Health
  89. Microbes in an overweight body are more efficient at extracting calories from food.
  90. Mind Boosters
  91. Natural Cancer Treatments
  92. Natural Progesterone and Blood Pressure/Inflammmation
  93. Non Toxic Hair Dyes
  94. Olive Leaf Extract
  95. Organic Dark Unprocessed Chocolate
  96. Osteoarthritis and Musculoskeletal Health
  97. Osteoporosis Prevention
  98. Osteoporosis - Softening of the Bones
  99. Overcoming Anxiety and Depression without Drugs!
  100. Parasitic Infections
  101. Parkinson's Desease
  102. Prostate Cancer & PC Spes
  103. Purify your Home without Poisons Chemicals
  104. Red Clover; Health Benefits of Isoflavones
  105. Phosphatidylserine (PS)
  106. Potassium In The News
  107. Preserving Your Sight
  108. Progesterone - Calming Effects
  109. Progesterone and Breast Cancer Study
  110. Progesterone, can we use that name?
  111. Progesterone, does it build up in your fat cells?
  112. Progestin VS Natural Progesterone
  113. Phyto-Progesterone is now called Diosgenin
  114. Recommended Supplements for Anti-Aging
  115. Seasonal Affective Disorder
  116. Seasonal Allergies
  117. Secret Remedies
  118. Shaping Children's Eating Habits
  119. Signs of Estrogen Deficiency
  120. Signs of Estrogen Excess
  121. Signs of Progesterone Excess
  122. Sinus Problems
  123. Six Types of Mothers
  124. Soy Foods May Protect the Body from Cancer
  125. Symptoms of Low Thyroid
  126. Synthetic Hormones and Breast Cancer
  127. Testosterone - how women can increase or decrease Testosterone Levels
  128. Thinning Hair
  129. Tinnitus
  130. Tips for Traveler's Health
  131. Top Ten Reasons to Get Off Synthetic Hormones
  132. Toxic Shampoos
  133. Type II Diabetes - Insulin Resistance
  134. Vaginal Dryness - High In Oxalate Foods to Avoid
  135. Vitamin A
  136. Vitamin B
  137. Vitamin Bible and Healthy Tips
  138. Vitamin D - emphasizing the importance of supplementing with Vitamin D
  139. Vitamin E - may provide women with protection from breast cancer
  140. Vitamin K
  141. Ways to fit fiber in your diet
  142. Weight Loss
  143. Wellness Plan
  144. West Nile Virus
  145. What to look for in a Biological Dentist
  146. Why Natural Progesterone is better than Synthetic
  147. Women and Heart Disease
  148. Word... Water... Walk...
  149. Wyeth Pharmaceutical lies in study

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