SKIN CARE MADE EASY

A Note from Dr. Pensanti

I have interviewed many dermatologists, plastic surgeons and skin care researchers as guests on the national TV show "DOCTOR TO DOCTOR". These experts in the field of skin rejuvenation have taught me what works and what doesn't; how impure products often clog pores instead of refining them, the difference in all the "acids" now available; how important pH levels are; as well as the answer to the question: "What is the most effective way to have beautiful skin.?"

As a result of my extensive research, I have developed my Helen Pensanti M.D. line of Skin Care products. The level of active ingredients I have used is superior to those found in department stores or pharmacies. Also, I have insisted that the prices be affordable without sacrificing the quality ingredients that will work for you. Yes, " Beverly Hills Skin @ Affordable Prices!!!!"

The object is to rejuvenate your skin and keep it looking healthy and youthful. That is my goal for you. As you will see, good skin care really CAN be EASY!
AND you can have dramatic results without spending a lot of money.

WHAT IS YOUR SKIN TYPE?

It is very simple to determine your skin type. There are 2 basic skin types. Leading dermatologists and skin care experts concentrate on the amount of oil your skin produces. That's the key.
Your product choices and regimen depend on how oily you are. Aging skin is not a category unto itself. Mature skin can fall into either category.

THE BASIC SKIN CARE STEPS

A.M.

1. Cleanse / Exfoliate
2. Rejuvenate
a. "C" product
b. An AHA product (glycolic acid)
3. Sun Protection

P.M.

I. Cleanse I Exfoliate
2. Rejuvenate
a. A Retinol product or a "C" product
b. An AHA product (glycolic acid)

STEP 1:
CLEANSE / EXFOLIATE

Proper exfoliating is an absolutely essential step in your skin care program. Older, mature skin especially needs to be coaxed into cellular regeneration and in order to do this, the older dead layer must be sloughed off.

This build up of cells hides the fresh, new layer of skin beneath. Dead cells build up weekly, dulling and clouding the skin and depriving it of a fresh looking smooth texture Skin tone becomes dull, pores got congested and blemishes may occur.

Who Should Exfoliate?

You should exfoliate if you have; dry skin, oily skin, blackheads, acne, sun damaged skin, flaky skin or a rough surface texture. For oily skin, the best way to keep pores from being clogged is to help the skin cells shed so they do not get trapped inside your pores, causing blackheads or blemishes.

Do not exfoliate if you have a skin disorder such as Rosacea, eczema, dermatitis, or seborrhea.

How do I Exfoliate?

You need to exfoliate the outer layer of the skin either by buffing or with a glycolic acid. There are also excellent cleansers that utilize Vitamin C technology. I personally like to use buffing grains containing polyethylene micro beads which gently buff the skin and alleviate superficial lines and roughness. Proper buffing can also help clear acne and other skin blemishes. After cleansing your face, it should feel clean and fresh.

What about natural fruit scrubs?

Many "natural" fruit scrubs contain ground pits such as apricot and peach which may contaminate after a period of time. Instead, I recommend pH tested microgranules which are non organic and do not attract bacteria

Q. ARE YOU AFRAID TO EXFOLIATE?

A. Remember, it is a MYTH that exfoliation makes dry skin dryer.
People with dry skin have more loose, dead cell layers than others. Also, people with acne need to keep their skin scrupulously clean. Exfoliation prevents dead skin buildup and therefore helps to prevent and heal blemishes

Q. Do I need a toner?

A. Most of the experts I have consulted over the years have said, no, a toner is not necessary.

STEP 2:
REJUVENATE

This is a step you will follow for the rest of your life. Once you begin to rejuvenate your skin, you will continue to select products from this Step to maintain your skin's current glowing condition and to continue to reverse and improve the appearance of sun damaged or aging skin, including fine lines and wrinkles.

During the day you will use both an ANA product (usually glycolic acid) and a "C" product.

At night you will use your glycolic again and either your "C" or a Retinol (Vitamin A) product

Q. What does an AHA do?

AHA stands for alpha hydroxy acid and the best one is Glycolic acid which is made from sugar cane. It has the smallest molecule and is best able to penetrate the skin and bring about the most dramatic changes. GlycolicAcid does the following:
1) Removes the built up top layers of skin
2) Increases cell turnover and allows healthier cells to come to the surface.
3)Acts as a resurfacing agent, vastly improves the skin's texture and color
4) Unclogs pores.
5) Has good water binding properties and thus helps keep water in the skin at the same time it is exfoliating. It allows moisturizers to be better absorbed.
6) Can reduce acne scarring.

What conditions does it help?
1) Sun Damage 2) Aging
3) Hyperpigmentation 4) Acne

IMPORTANT: Glycolic acid should be used consistently, If you stop using AHA's the skin will revert to its previous condition.

REMINDER: When you initially begin to use an AHA, skin tingling can occur. You may need to cut back if it is more than a little tingling, or stop if it persists for more than a few weeks or worsens with repeated use. If your skin doesn't tingle, it does not mean the product is not working.

Q. What does Vitamin C do?

o Some of the most dramatic skin changes I have ever seen have involved the use of Vitamin C, particularly C ester because it stimulates collagen production. With continued use Vitamin C
1)dramatically lessens the appearance of wrinkles and deeper lines
2) increases skin elasticity so skin appears measurably firmer evens skin tones.
3) Facial contours will begin to appear tighter.

Note, Glycolic acid & Vitamin C are very compatible and when used together, your skin will appear rejuvenated, firmer, and more glowingly youthful.

Q. What does Retinol do?

I like to recommend Retinol for night time use,
Retinol is the purest form of Vitamin A and one of nature's most powerful anti wrinkle ingredients. It works within the skin's surface to reduce the appearance of wrinkles. The prescription form of this product is called Retin A or Renova. Vitamin A has been shown to:
1) increase cellular strength and new cell development deep within the skin's surface.
2) lessen blotching and roughness
3) even skin tones giving skin a rosy hue and a healthy glow.
4) reduce and prevent the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles & age spots.
5) help keep your skin blemish free, glowing, soft and firm

Q: "I have started using a stronger glycolic acid than I used to and am experiencing some redness and flaking. Is it too strong for me?"

A: If your skin gets dry and flaky, it is probably getting used to the new level of exfoliation Use some extra hydration/moisture while the skin is getting used to this.

It your skin gets red and irritated, use the product less frequently (once a day instead of twice, or 2 3 times weekly instead of daily). If it remains very dry and irritated, go back to your original level of glycolic. The desired result is exfoliation, not irritation.

STEP 3:
EXTRA MOISTURE I HYDRATION

This step is where you can add products that give an extra boost of moisture and in some cases, antioxidant benefits to your skin.
You may need this if you are going thru a period of extra dryness
due to climate or perhaps hormonally.
.
Not everyone needs this step and you may need it only periodically,

DAYTIME MOISTURIZER / SUN PROTECTION

When using AHA's you should use a moisturizer twice a day (Day and Night). These not only add moisture and suppleness to the skin, but prevent the skin's natural moisture from escaping in the first place.
In addition to protecting against skin cancer, wearing sun block is a major factor in slowing the aging process of you skin.
I like to use a moisturizer that contains SPF (sun protectant factors), so that moisturizing and protecting from sun is a one step process.
Good ingredients to look for which seal in moisture without clogging pores are: aloe vera, hyaluronic acid, jojoba, or Vitamin E (tocopheryl)
A good sun protectant product should never feel heavy or greasy, but should leave the facial skin with a soft conditioned feeling, prepared for make up or to be left alone looking silky and non greasy.
Sunscreen is applied last because applying anything else over it can dilute its effectiveness.

EYE CARE

Many women do not use an eye cream, considering them unnecessary. Dermatologists disagree and so do I. The skin around the eyes needs special attention because it has fewer oil producing glands to keep it supple. The thin, dry eye skin is the first facial skin to show signs of age in the form of fine lines, puffiness, dark circles, and a loss of elasticity.

A good eye cream should contain an active ingredient such as Vitamin A or Vitamin C.
Vitamin A is as potent anti oxidant, which helps fight skin damaging free radicals and promotes new skin cell development. Among the benefits: fewer lines, fine lines and smoother texture. Vitamin C is excellent for stimulating collagen appearance of dark under eye circles.

SOME FACTS ABOUT EYE CARE PRODUCTS

1) Your eye cream should be packaged in a small container. Since these must be replaced more often they 2) You should replace your eye cream every 2 3 months.
3) Eye creams are richer and some women prefer to use them only at night when makeup is not a factor.
4) For brightening circles under eyes: Vitamin C is excellent. Also there are many botanical herbs found in "eye brightener" products which do a good job of firming the eye area as well as brightening.
6) During the day, apply sunscreen over your eye cream so that the vulnerable eye area is as protected as the rest of your face.

If you have several eye concerns such as crow's feet AND dark circles, you may want to choose two separate products and use them alternately.

SPECIALIZED TREATMENTS ACNE

If you have an acne condition that you are trying to clear up, or if you have occasional breakouts of oily skin and flare ups, switch to the acne regime. You may switch back when your face is clear

Research has shown the following ingredients to be most effective against acne:
1) Benzoyl Peroxide: destroys bacteria deep in the follicle
2) Glycolic Acid: Helps keep follicles clear, also reduces size of follicles
3) Salicylic Acid: helps reverse the formation of acne lesions
4) Azelaic Acid. Anti bacterial helps clear blocked follicles.

HYPERPIGMENTATION: brown spots/ age spots, freckles, liver spots and uneven pigmentation in the skin. Usual causes are sunlight, acne, hormones and drugs.
1) These spots have been found to respond well to glycolic acid paired with either kojic acid or hydroquinone.
2) Azelaic Acid and Salicylic acid combined with glycolic also give excellent results.

Choose a product and use it in place of your glycolic product while you are treating the hyperpigmentation. Results are often seen within the first few weeks.

Apply your lightening product twice daily, morning and evening to your entire face or to specific spots. If you are already using a "C" product, apply the lightening product over the "C" just as you would in Step 2.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Q: When do I stop using my glycolic acid product?
A. If you want your AHA products to work, you must use them on a regular basis for the rest of your life. The skin changes they promote are not permanent, but based on continuous use. When you stop using the product, the skin will slowly revert to its original condition. You Will want a long term relationship with your beautiful skin, so you must commit to using your products on into old age.

Q. I used to have very normal skin, now I am so dry, What happened?
A. Perimenopause and menopause can be at the root of dry skin. Estrogen helps maintain the skin's moisture content and loss of estrogen reduces the lipid content of the skin which eliminates its natural protection against dryness. A good phytoprogesterone, phyto estrogen cream can make a dramatic difference for many women

Q. Is it o.k. to just use a washcloth on my face?
A. Many of you have asked about special facial washcloths or brushes. These are almost impossible to keep clean, not to mention the expense of a "special cloth". Dermatologists and skin care researchers say that using your clean hands to cleanse your face and a soft washcloth or towel to pat it dry is more then adequate.

Q. What does the pH of a product mean?
A. If your AHA or lightening product is at too low of a pH, it will irritate your skin. If the pH is too high, the product may feel good on your skin, but will not exfoliate. It will only act as a moisturizer which is not what you want from your AHA. The right pH is important and that is one of the reasons I created the Helen Pensanti M.D. skin care line. Many of the cheaper products on the market have a very high pH.

Q. I have acne, but only up around my hair line, not on the rest of my face. What causes this?
A. This is commonly caused by irritants in your hair care products. Switch to a shampoo and conditioner without sodium laurel sulfate or sodium laureth sulfate. You may see an immediate change.

SOURCES

Skin Research and Technology, August 2000, pp 128 134
Journal of the Am. Academy of Dermatology, Jan, 1996, p 29 33
Journal of the Am. Academy of Dermatology, Feb, 2002, p 41 62
Cosmetic Dermatology, December 2001. p 37 39
Cosmetic Dermatology October, 2001 p 15  18
Archives of Dermatologic Research, June, 1997, p 404 409
Dermatology Surgery May, 1998, p 429 433
American Journal of Clinical Dermatology (September October 2000, p 261 268)
Journal of Cosmetic Science, May June 1998, p 37 39, 208 290
Dermatological Surgery, May 1996, p 443 447
Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology, July 2000, p 280 284
Journal of Cell Physiology, October 1999, p 14 23
International Journal of Dermatology, Feb, 2001, p 158 159
Journal of the Am. Academy of Dermatology Aug. 2000, p 325 326
Journal of Cosmetic Science, Nov Dec 2000, p 343 349